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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.